A funny craft shop wall mural, found early on the Connemara drive |
Connemara is completely unlike anything we’ve seen so far in our trip. The road from Dublin to Galway, while it was lovely and green, was still just a highway. For our detour to Clonmacnoise we ventured off the beaten path and got our first taste of the more rural R- roads. Our drive through Connemara, however, was truly spectacular.
I'd been pretty well convinced that Connemara was something we had to see. However, given that Jason had been doing a lot of driving, we decided to ask one of our B&B hosts what he thought. His response sealed the deal: "It's unmissable," he said. "I recommend it to anyone who spends time in Galway." Our hosts' advice had been invaluable so far, so this was all the encouragement we needed.
As soon as you get a bit beyond Galway city, the land begins
to rise and fall in gently rolling hills, the road meandering between
them. Small white farmhouse cottages
nestle at the base of mountains whose tops are enveloped by thick mists and sides
are deeply veined by streams.
Not everyone can say they have a mountain in their backyard |
There is a
soft wildness to the grass – a mixture of green and autumnal tones gently
undulating in the breeze. The deep
greenness of everything is
undeniable; coming from the Pacific Northwest, you might think yourself
accustomed to the color based on the sheer number of conifers, but, somehow,
this is a green of a different kind. There
is such infinite variance to it that words describing the whole of it don’t
exist.
We passed the occasional dilapidated stone cottage with
wind-stripped boards haphazardly nailed over the windows. Much more plentiful were the brightly colored
sheep grazing to either side of the road: vivid green, blue, and red markings
were dyed on their backs in different patterns to distinguish them from other
farmer’s flocks. To us, it looked like the
sheep had been playing paintball.
Sheep, paintball players, or both? I'll let you be the judge. |
Our first encounters with livestock in the road were also here. Small black sheepy faces peered at us, blinking incuriously from the middle of our lane. They were very nonchalant about the matter as they marched away in single file, flicking their tails as they went. Clearly, they were not at all worried about the presence of cars here.
Watch out sheepies, here we come! |
The speed limits on these roads were typically 100 km/h, or about 62 mph. Depending on your perspective, this may or may not seem like sheer madness given that they are winding, narrow, and bumpy. At times it feels like all they did was leave the land as-is, slap down some pavement, and call it good. It's particularly noticeable when your stomach drops out from going over several rises and falls of the road, all of them in a row. (This is a sensation which I happen to really enjoy. Your mileage may vary.)
Jason seemed to be having a lot of fun as he downshifted to
corner the turns. He did a great job
striking a balance between flying down the roads like a true Irishman and exercising caution
around the more winding turns and blind rises.
After all, it’s not every day that you get to race down backcountry
roads in someone else’s car (and with few other vehicles around.) As he put it, “I feel like I’m speeding, but
I’m not even going the speed limit!” (One of our B&B hosts said it's crazy to try to go the speed limit on the back roads here anyway: "You'd be likely to go flying off the roads completely!")
In contrast, US speed limits are set so low that practically everyone breaks them by a good 5-15 mph, especially on highways. Here, speed limits appear to be more along the lines of, “You probably shouldn’t go this fast, but if you reaaally want to, we won’t stop you.” That being said, while on the straightaways we might have gone the marked 100 km/h, around the bends it was definitely much slower. (For reference, the max speed on the highways here is 120 km/h (~74 mph), compared to the typical US highway speed of 60 mph (70 mph in less populated areas)). Given how well Jason's taken to driving Irish roads, I'm just hoping at this point that he doesn't get too many tickets once we're back home.
In contrast, US speed limits are set so low that practically everyone breaks them by a good 5-15 mph, especially on highways. Here, speed limits appear to be more along the lines of, “You probably shouldn’t go this fast, but if you reaaally want to, we won’t stop you.” That being said, while on the straightaways we might have gone the marked 100 km/h, around the bends it was definitely much slower. (For reference, the max speed on the highways here is 120 km/h (~74 mph), compared to the typical US highway speed of 60 mph (70 mph in less populated areas)). Given how well Jason's taken to driving Irish roads, I'm just hoping at this point that he doesn't get too many tickets once we're back home.
As we went on, the land became even wilder. Vast, foggy lakes stretched out beside the
road, some with heavily treed little islands marooned in the middle. At some points, rock walls or rickety fences
lined the road, while at other times, sheer orange cliff faces rose up to one
or both sides.
One of several small lake islands seen during the drive |
Our drive through Connemara took us from Galway through
Oughterard and then Maam Cross, where we turned off to go through the smallish
coastal town of Roundstone. Here we
stopped at a café for what has become the lunch option of choice (and is
ubiquitous here, whether at a tiny café or a full-on restaurant) – soup and
brown bread. It’s an economical, hearty,
and filling option, and we’re taking full advantage of every opportunity we get
to sample the many varieties of homemade brown soda bread. (So far, the best was at Ard Bia in Galway;
thick slices with sunflower and pumpkins seeds all around the crust).
Roundstone was also the first place in Connemara where we
noticed a strange thing – small flies buzzing around in the
rain. Generally you don’t see flies and
rain together (maybe moreso in swampy areas?)
I mention them for a reason – more on this later.
Continuing on, we wound our way around the coast with a
clear view of the sea and clean ocean scent blowing in through the
windows. We had a brief stop for pictures at Gurteen Beach, where a cemetery and trailer home community shared a
rise overlooking the sea – a great view. In spite of the icy wind and even colder water, a swimsuit-clad local woman was bravely taking dip (down the beach in the opposite direction, the somewhat less hardy – likely tourists – were trying their luck in wetsuits.)
Along the water at Gurteen Beach |
There was still more beautiful coastal
scenery to be had as we made our way to the larger town of Clifden, known for its Abbeyglen Castle hotel. Clifden is also both the start
and endpoint for a scenic drive along Sky Road.
We took Sky Road without stopping in Clifden, climbing ever-upwards
along a winding cliff face. Some more
tricky parts of the road were without walls or fences along the cliffside –
definitely a place to drive carefully, but nothing too bad.
The
view out the car windows was amazing and well worth it: sea out all along the
west and lush hills below. It was a fairly short drive to the top, and we soon reached the lookout point. Below us stretched a magnificent
patchwork quilt of bright green fields, rolling hills, and the occasional farmhouse
cottage. We could see all the way out to the sea and beyond to peninsulas and islands in the
distance. We were so high up that sheep
and cows were only tiny white flecks sprinkled across the land below.
Unfortunately, we weren’t the only ones up there. Tiny biting
flies – of the kind we’d seen in Roundstone, but in much greater numbers –
swarmed around our faces in spite of the rain and cold. We cinched our jacket hoods tightly around our heads, hoping to buy a few more minutes of view and photography opportunities, but it was fruitless.
Anyone who got out of their cars at the lookout almost immediately began waving their hands and arms wildly, trying to fend the flies off from their nostrils and eyes. There were a lot of them. One couple who'd been there before us were standing up on the wall of the overlook, strangely unbothered or maybe just unwilling to let it get to them, drinking coffees and eating a sandwich.
Anyone who got out of their cars at the lookout almost immediately began waving their hands and arms wildly, trying to fend the flies off from their nostrils and eyes. There were a lot of them. One couple who'd been there before us were standing up on the wall of the overlook, strangely unbothered or maybe just unwilling to let it get to them, drinking coffees and eating a sandwich.
One more Sky Road photo, before we made a swift retreat |
We weren't quite so resilient. After a few more hasty attempts to get pictures we fled to the car. We'd heard Sky Road was "unforgettable" and even "harrowing" – it certainly was, but not for any of the reasons we imagined! All joking aside, we really want to return someday and to experience its beauty again. Hopefully next time there will be fewer flies.
---
Updated: The story continues in part 2 of our Connemara scenic drive.
---
Updated: The story continues in part 2 of our Connemara scenic drive.
R I believe means Regional - N is National. Unlabeled is Sheep Track :)
ReplyDeleteI think you must have encountered the lovely wonder that are midges. They are awful. SkinSoSoft is a good repellent.
*shudders* Okay, definitely didn't need to read that Wikipedia article on midges. I think you're definitely right. Not an experience I'd like to repeat.
DeleteThanks for clarifying on the "R" roads. I fixed it. :)