Q&A #2: How to allocate time between Dingle and Doolin, recommendations on what to do, Ireland itinerary, and more!

Meegan had some questions for me, and my response ended up being too long for a comment.  So, Meegan, here are my answers - I hope this helps!

Ireland Picture Post #7: Dingle and Slea Head Drive

These pictures are from Day 9 Part 1 and Part 2, where we gathered up some picnicking supplies at the behest of our B&B hosts, and then set off on the scenic drive along the Slea Head peninsula.

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Peeking into the back of a bakery in Dingle town

Iceland Day 4, Part 2: Snæfellsness peninsula photo tour

Foggy landscape near the Spirit of Snæfellsness

Much of the drive is still obfuscated in fog, but as we make our way around the tip of the peninsula, there's a break - first in the mist, and then in the clouds. Suddenly, what was a dark and rainy day becomes sunny and too warm for jackets. Now that we've rounded the peninsula, Owen explains, the mountains are boxing the fog in behind us. We're hopeful that the rest of the drive will be this clear.

It's time for lunch, so we stop at the local gas station in a town. Here, unlike in the US, the convenience store food is actually made fresh and to order. They have hot dogs (pylsur), fish and chips, hamburgers, soft serve ice cream (popular in all seasons), and a gambling machine. In a small village such like this, it's one of the main gathering places.  It's much different than I expected - with its several industrial buildings, it's a pragmatic and modern, rather than being the quaint, fishing town I imagined.

Iceland Day 4, Part 1: Snæfellsness peninsula photo tour

A cliffside house on Snæfellsness peninsula

This morning it was John and Audrey's turn to rise early(ish) with us in preparation for our Iceland Aurora photo expedition to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. After seeing the great reviews, the prospect of gallivanting around Iceland in a superjeep and, moreover, honing our photography skills on a private tour seemed too good an adventure to pass up.

Ireland Day 9, Part 2: Slea head drive

The view along Slea head

We polished off our cheese, bread, and coffee, then headed back to the car for the latter half of the Slea head drive.

I gazed out the passenger window as the low rock wall sped by, looking out to the cliffs.  Bits of land jutted out into the water beyond, tops tufted with grasses so richly colored that they were vibrant, even from afar.  Farther beyond these, in the hazy distance, islands rose up from sea.  One of them, known as the "Sleeping Giant", is true to its name - it looked exactly like a giant on his back, his hands on top of his stomach, napping peacefully amongst the waves.  To our right, the green patchwork of the mountain sloped upward, dotted with the occasional cottage or ruin.  It was hard to know which way to look when surrounded by so much beauty.  

Ireland Day 9, Part 1: Slea head drive

An apple enjoys the view from our room

There's nothing quite like waking up, throwing back the curtains, and gazing out to sea, cows, and greenery.  So far, Dingle has the pastoral, rural elements of Doolin which we were surprised to love so much.  There are even horses right across the street from our B&B, and when a horse-drawn cart goes by from time to time, they all race over to watch it pass.

Yet a mere 5 minute drive down the hill brings you to the sprawl of Dingle shops, and if you follow the rise and fall of the road, it leads you out to a harbor chock full of boats.  In this sense, it has the feel of Galway, where we wandered along the sea walls gazing down at the grizzled sailors in their small fishing crafts.

Ireland Picture Post #3: Connemara

These photos are from Day 5, Connemara Scenic Drive, Part 1 and Part 2.  Connemara is a beautifully wild, Irish-speaking region northwest of Galway.  It was also easily one of the most gorgeous places I've ever seen.

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Barreling down the Connemara back roads

Ireland Day 8, Part 2: Arrival in Dingle

Descending the pass toward Dingle revealed lovely views of water and greenery.  The roads here were even more twisting than the ones up the mountain.  The bags on the backseat slid back and forth, whacking into each other and against the car doors with a thud-whump-thud kind of cadence. It was one of those moments that cracks you up at the time, but I couldn't explain to you now why it was so funny.  Must have been all that mountain air.

We kept craning our necks out the windows, wondering when we'd see Dingle.  It snuck up on us, and, all of a sudden, there we were with lovely harbor to one side and cozy-colorful buildings on the other, variegated shops and pubs marching around and over the hilly downtown streets.

Ireland Day 8, Part 1: Doolin to Dingle via Conor Pass

Try at least one Irish breakfast per B&B, you say? Challenge accepted.

After savoring one more breakfast at the B&B, we hit the road.  Today's route would be fairly simple.  It's possible to get to the Dingle peninsula by heading east, following the coastal curve inland to Limerick, and then back down southwest.  However, this would easily be close to 5 hours when you factor in stops. After several days with a lot of time spent in the car, we were ready for something more direct.  Instead of the scenic route, we'd be taking a more point-to-point southerly drive, made possible by a car ferry from Killimer to Tarbert.

Ireland Intermezzo #2: Driving in Ireland

Our happy little Fiat Punto.

Today's guest post is written (and partially illustrated!) by the official "make-sure-we-don't-die" expert extraordinaire: Jason.  Enjoy!

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I loved driving in Ireland – sure, we had to repair a punctured tyre and bent rim, but isn’t that all part of the adventure?  And how else would I have met that nice mechanic in Galway?  As the old saying goes, “You can’t know a city until you’ve fixed 2 tyres in it.”  (Okay… I might have made that up.)

Ireland Day 6, Part 2: Coastal drive to Doolin town

After winding our way through the Burren, it was time to start thinking about getting to Doolin.  We drove north from Poulnabrone Dolmen up to Ballyvaughan, which is almost due west of Kinvarra (the town just 30 minutes south of Galway which we'd driven through initially).  So, after 5+ hours of travel we'd essentially come as far north again as we'd gone south.  The reason?  A scenic drive, of course!

From Ballyvaughan we followed the coastline west and then southward, taking in beautiful seaside views.  As official "make sure we don't die" driver extraordinaire, Jason had to be careful not to goggle too much.  These roads were very serpentine.

Ireland Day 5, Part 2: Connemara scenic drive, continued!

One of many beautiful views in the Connemara Inagh Valley

(For those who missed it, check out the first part of our Connemara drive here.)

Inside the car, there were flies everywhere – attempts to keep them out had failed spectacularly, so our descent from the Sky Road back to Clifden required methodical extermination using maps, guidebooks, and whatever else was handy.  

By the time we reached Clifden, the car's interior was finally livable.  We backtracked a bit so we’d be able to drive through the Inagh Valley on the way up to Kylemore.  The Inagh Valley is considered to be one of the most scenic parts of what's an already incredibly beautiful region.

We certainly were not disappointed, surrounded yet again by mountains rising up into mist and calm lake waters right alongside the road.  

Ireland Day 5, Part 1: Connemara scenic drive

A funny craft shop wall mural, found early on the Connemara drive

Connemara is completely unlike anything we’ve seen so far in our trip.  The road from Dublin to Galway, while it was lovely and green, was still just a highway.  For our detour to Clonmacnoise we ventured off the beaten path and got our first taste of the more rural R- roads.  Our drive through Connemara, however, was truly spectacular.

I'd been pretty well convinced that Connemara was something we had to see.  However, given that Jason had been doing a lot of driving, we decided to ask one of our B&B hosts what he thought.  His response sealed the deal: "It's unmissable," he said.  "I recommend it to anyone who spends time in Galway."  Our hosts' advice had been invaluable so far, so this was all the encouragement we needed.