Ireland Day 2, Part 2: Dublin city

Ends up hotel rooms don’t provide enough mental stimulation to stay awake, so bus into Dublin city it was.  In light of which, by the way, I would fully support a move by Seattle to exclusively double-decker transit.  No more need for awkward seats in the articulating middle, and twice the height of course means twice the excitement when you go hurtling around corners at breakneck speeds.

Having traveled before, Jason found Dublin similar to other western European cities, at least to his recollection (which may be vague, as it's been many years).  For me, it was new but not entirely unfamiliar – bustling street corners, pedestrian-only lanes (which were lovely, given that street crossings have proven to be frustrating and often require very bold jaywalking), and shiny-lacquered shops snugged up against each other with no space in between.  Some sidewalks were wider than the streets (which I know may not be saying much, given the reputation these streets have for being rather narrow - but they were rather wide sidewalks nonetheless), while others are so narrow that two people can hardly walk side by side.

While I didn't expect to compare someplace like Seattle with Dublin, there are many similarities: both cities have grit and grime and that prototypical ocean city amalgam of salt tang, seaweed, and crisp breeze.  It’s hard to point out immediately what really made it feel different, but I’d say the sense of new mixed in with old – a light rail on one street, and the historic Trinity college (home to the Book of Kells) just a few blocks over – certainly plays a part.  The buildings are another distinguishing factor: there aren't many (any?) skyscrapers, and the often-colorful paint and lettering on their facades is a theme we've seen repeated across pictures of many Irish towns.

Dublin pedestrian lane draped with lights

A metal spire was a handy landmark to use in the downtown area, so we explored the streets around it.  Of particular note – Avoca, a boutique-cum-deli.  Seven levels of woolen sweaters, knick-knacks, scarves, quirky kitchen utensils, candles, soaps, and more.  My favorite was the brightly dyed wool blankets: alternating plaids and solid squares of fuchsia, chartreuse, orange, and indigo - some draped over weathered antique chairs, others neatly stacked and folded in open-faced cabinets and armoires.  If we don’t end up getting a wool throw before we wrap up our trip back in Dublin, we’ll have to get one from here (while have very few goals as far souvenirs go, a woolen blanket is most definitely now on the list.) 

On the very bottom floor, the deli: colorful jam jars perching on shelves and aisles formed by open refrigerator cases, most sadly empty (we’ll have to come back), but some stocked with charcuterie, cheeses, and locally made pies.  The very top floor was unfortunately cordoned off – another  must visit for later, as that’s where their café is located (yes, a deli, café, and boutique all in one – it’s almost as if they know me or something.)

Dinner was at Cornucopia, a packed vegan/vegetarian/gluten free restaurant which, though we are none of the above, is very highly rated (and, to his credit, just so happened to be one of Jason’s forty-plus pages of restaurant print-outs).  Picking up our food at the counter (mushroom, potato, and French lentil moussaka, some sort of tofu and bean casserole, two kinds of salad (pomegranate bulgur and chickpea fennel), and a raspberry chocolate torte with a dollop of tangy yogurt), we settled in to eat and people-watch through the large window at the bar, which was scattered with tealights and beeswax tapers in terra cotta plant pots.  Delicious and eclectic; a perfect start to the trip.

We took the bus back to the hotel room (thankfully only about 30 minutes) and zonked.  A great but exhausting second day.