It's about
what you would expect. For one thing, there were penises. (Le gasp.) They interchangeably jutted from the walls and floated gray, sad, and deformed in
formaldehyde-filled jars.
They were everywhere.
I felt as
though my face would remain permanently fixed in a
horrified grimace of revulsion; I was
convinced that weeks of nightmares filled with terrifying visions of whale
appendages were to follow.
Thankfully, they didn't, though for the whole rest
of the trip we saw phallic symbols practically wherever we looked - from candlesticks in a store window to the peaked top of a monument on Snæfellsness.
There are only so many penises one can
look at in any given day. I'm sure science will one day determine the exact number; suffice it to say that, for me, it was a good thing the museum was fairly small, as I'd reached my limit.
Finishing
up at the inexplicably covered-by-a-sheet "erotic" case (significantly less shocking than the whale phalli - phalluses? - jutting from the walls), we hailed a
cab again, at last making our way to Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur for, appropriately or inappropriately
enough, hot dogs.
It's a tiny
food truck near the flea market and the Old
Harbour. We hop
into the short line and order four with
everything (John and Audrey also ordered the traditional accompaniment - a Coca
Cola).
The hot dogs are served up with a couple different sauces,
including a sweet brown mustard.
Underneath the hot dog are crisp fried
onions; a nice textural counterpoint to the
fluffy-soft hot dog bun and the toothsome hot dog casing
crunch as you bite into it. It certainly isn't like a typical
American hot dog. You can tell that the
meat and bread are higher quality.
Jason and I polished
ours off; Audrey, too, but John didn't find it to his liking. I think it
was the combination of sauce flavors - in particular,
the sweet mustard - that were off-putting for
him.
Jason and I
thought it was different and delicious, though I think I'd need another go at
it to determine whether I'd truly call it the "best hot dog in the
world". (Regrettably, I feel it is my duty to inform the author of said article that "the best hot dog in
the world" is probably whatever one you're eating while drunk. Those are the
circumstances under which I ate the Best Seattle Dog ever,
and, sadly, have been chasing that particular food high ever since.)
John was
still hungry after abandoning his pylsur, so we introduced him and
Audrey to the lobster soup at The Sea Baron just up the street. This was more to their liking, and so we sat
and talked for a while.
Afterwards,
Audrey decided to
brave her way through Reykjavik on crutches in order to explore the city in the
purple twilight. Shop fronts cast their warm light on the street as we meandered
past a graffitied corridor.
Leaning into
another hot dog stand, I asked for a bar recommendation and was told that the
English pub nearby was good. We stopped
by for a couple drinks and played a card game, then headed out to a convenience
store, where we were waylaid by the candy aisle (Jason and I have a tradition
of bringing back food to our coworkers whenever we travel) and a need for
snacks to tide us over during the following day's adventures.
Now that it
was full dark, we made a last stop across the street from the Harpa conference
center, set up the tripods, and set out to snapping some pictures as its
windows illuminated in a chromatic cascade, undulating from blues through all
the colors of the rainbow, traffic speeding by from
time to time.
Harpa at night |
We returned to the Hilton for a few drinks, an evening snack, and a couple games of Magic before turning in for the night. Tomorrow, the real adventure would begin.
---
Fun
fact: The Phallological museum founder's path toward establishing it
began as a joke.
As a schoolteacher, in the summer his
peers worked part-time in the whaling industry and began bringing him him whale penises. (Note that if my coworkers brought me the penis of anything, I'd probably find a new job. We'll chalk it up to different personalities.)
Somewhere along the way he thought it would
be a great idea to turn it into a museum celebrating said equipment. According to the literature, it's the only museum of its kind in the world. Also note: it was one of the only places we visited
in Iceland that was cash only.
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